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MOULIN ROUGE, French for "what the f***?," is an overripe, over-stim- ulated, chaotic collision of costume comedy, period musical, and, well, hard-boiled writer pic that's set in 1900 Paris as Tim Burton might've imagined it, is manically directed by Baz "Confusion, What's That?" Luhrmann (STRICTLY BALLROOM, WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE'S ROMEO AND JULIET), and whose elaborately costumed characters not only break into song but break into contemporary *pop* songs. Ergo, such stranger-than-strange (early) screen moments as Ewan McGregor belting out "The Sound of Mu- sic," a top hat 'n' tails-wearing Can Can-club crowd line-dancing to Nirvana's "Nevermind," and a glittering, ghost-white Nicole Kidman sus- pended from a trapeze and cooing "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend." (Later music mayhem includes Jim Broadbent shouting a Madonna song, or so the ads have shown. We left early, my date having a headache. And if that sounds too fishy, then call it a haddock. Just for the hali- but... Also, there's no apparent sign of *Ozzy Osbourne* singing about said hills being alive, though he reportedly recorded a version for the film. Maybe it'll surface on the *second* volume of the soundtrack al- bum...) There are numerous *non*-musical diversions, too: John Leguizamo's di- minutive chatterbox Toulouse Lautrec (though never uttering the line "special delivery, a bumb"), a blast of first-hour slapstick involving Kidman's frantic hotel-room concealment of one gentleman caller from a- nother, and, for that matter, just about *any* scantily-clad shot of the Artist Formerly Known as Mrs. Tom Cruise prancing about in her next-to-nothings. Rarely is sexy so surreal... The plot has something to do with McGregor's character trying to write about love, Kidman's character mistakenly leading him on-- in addition to hanging around nightclubs, the sickly singer performs "other services" after hours-- her later death, and his later despair. (At least, that's what the framing device-within-a-framing device suggests.) In the likely event of head-scratching, film fans can at least enjoy the sundry silent-mo- vie references: old-time title cards, black-and-white tinting (grainy, of course), and a singing man-in-the-moon right out of Georges Melies' 1902 FX-fest LE VOYAGE DANS LA LUNE. I'll leave the translation to you, as I gotta oui oui. (Rated "PG-13"/126 min.) Grade: W/O Copyright 2001 by Michael J. Legeros Movie Hell is a trademark of Michael J. Legeros